Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Mendoza

While in Mendoza we have traveled on a tour to the boundary of Argentina and Chile. It
was a full day from 8am to 7pm. Gorgeous countryside, very aired as Argentina is mostly
desert with a few oasis in which one of them Mendoza and the wine district is located. We
went to the top of the highest mountain range here, about 15,000 feet high. We took a
ski chair lift to the summit of one mountain to see the beautiful views. We enjoyed a nice
but very large lunch of grilled chicken, potatoes, bread and salad. Our tour consisted of
mostly Spanish speaking people and 4 tourists from Norway and us so our tour guide tried
to tell us some things in English. We enjoyed it all though. The second day we went white
water rafting. Here we met another American couple from Florida. The rafting was great
fun and exhillerating. Good to be on the water again. Our guide was so funny. One of the
guides, Salvadore from Portugal, rode back on the bus with us to the city and invited us
for a BBQ at one of the Hostels close to our hotel. Dinner was at 10.30PM so we took a nap
before going. Ha! Had a great time and met people from the states, Great Britain, and
lots of Argentinians. The food was fabulous. Great steaks, sausages, salads, and grilled
vegetables lots of wine (we took 2 bottles) and beer. We expected mostly young people
to be staying there but were all ages. One young American man had just gotten back from
Brazil and Carnival there. The bus ride had been 58 hours. Gads. I told him only because
he was young could he handle that. Yesterday we went on a Wine Tour of 3 vineyards with
a fantastic lunch at one of them. We were in a car with a driver and English speaking tour
guide named Loly, pronounced Lowly. She was a great guide and we had wonderful tastings
and much of the countryside. We got full tours of the 3 vineyards. One of the wineries
Adeluna is owned by Mr. Lay of the Frito Lay family. It seems he asked to buy one of the
old family vineyards here and they wouldn´t sell so he went into business with them and
when they couldn´t match the money he was putting into the vineyard he bought them out.
Although our guide was careful to not say it, it sounded like a hostile take over to us. The
family had not wanted to sell as vineyard had been in their family for years. We are
staying in the city today, Wednesday, and touring the parks located around our Hotel, there
are 5 of them. History of the parks and Mendoza. Mendoza suffered an earthquake in
1861 which destroyed the old city of Mendoza. The new city was moved some miles away
from the orginal location and 5 parks were built as a refuge place for the city residents
should there ever be another quake. The one in the center , Parque Independencia, is
in front of our hotel and the other 4 are built 2 blocks away from each of its corners.
All have beautiful green scapes, flowers, vendors, and one we are going to today, Parque
San Martin, named after the liberator of Peru, Chile, and Argentina, has a lake. Tomorrow
we leave for Puerto Madryn along the coast where we hope to see the Orcas, penquins, and
sea lions. I will write more from there. Amors, Adios.

Hello from Argentina

Hello Everyone: I can not believe that we have been gone for 2 weeks and this is my first blog.
Sorry, as I meant to do well by this. So here goes. We flew Copa Airlines, a Chilean airliner.
We flew into Buenos Aires after an all night flight from Panama City on February 6th. Double
trouble for me since I had caught the 6:30 AM flight on the 5th from Raleigh to Panama City.
My sweet husband met me at the airport with a driver who took us to a hotel close by so I
could have a nap, a shower, and eat lunch before our overnighter to BA. Our flight departed
at 7pm and we arrived around 9 hours later which was 3am our time but 6am Argentina time
as they are 3 hours ahead of Eastern daylight time.
So, through customs and immigration to the Hotel Art. Located in the Ricoletta area of
Buenos Aires. Check in was not until 2pm but they allowed us to leave our luggage and go
for a coffee with the promise that when we returned they would have a room ready for us.
So off we went for a walk about and 3 very small and very strong coffees, always served with
a small pastry at no charge. On our return, as promised, our room was ready. A nice surprise
as the room, although small, was very plush. We slept for a few hours to recharge our batteries
then off to visit the city. It is beautiful here with tree lined streets and friendly people. The
peso is worth 3 to $1US dollar so we have a small but reasonable advantage with our money.
They have people here they call ¨´dog walkers´´ they have 15 to 20 dogs, from very small
to very large, on leashes and they walk them for the rich people. They are paid $50US per
month per dog so is a good income for them. Mostly we saw young men doing this. We will
post a photo of this as is very funny to see.
The next day we took a 1/2 day city tour of Buenos Aires. We visited many parks as these
are very important to the Argentine people, green spaces, we visited the ´pink house´or the
Casa Rosada that Madonna sings about in Evita as is the Presidential Palace. The current
President, a woman, lives in her own home, out of the city, and flies in on a helicopter each
business day. We visited another Catholic Church, they all look alike, much beauty and wealth
abounds. One of the fun areas we visited was the area called ¨the Boca¨means the mouth,
an immigrant area of the Italians. It is full of brightly painted sheet metal houses and shops
called Casitas. Local street artists are everywhere. We also went to the port area called
Puerto Madero which is not ¨the place to live and see and be seen´. Once full of warehouses
the government gave its ok to be developed into condos, restaurants, and shops. Lovely.
Bueno. We went to a tango bar one night and watched the show and had a nice dinner.
With the transportation to and from the hotel was $100US dollars each, also included a
nice bottle of wine. AS most tourists we visted Eva Perrones grave site. A huge mausoluem
covered in plaques describing her accomplishments to the Argentine people. She is buried
in Ricoletta in the cemetery called ´the city of the dead´as the mausoleums are as large as
some houses.
Saturday February 9, we had an 8am flight to Iguazu Falls. From the small airport we took
a taxi to our hotel, Riotropic. Sparse but nice rooms. We went into the village for lunch and
to make bus reservations to Cordoba, our next intended stop, in 2 days time. Nice lunch
of pizza, very strange cheese, then back to hotel to lay at the pool and drink wine.
Sunday we took a taxi to the falls and it was lovely. Iguazu Falls is the 2nd largest in the
world next to Victoria Falls in Canada. Our Niagara Falls is considered Iguazu´s ´hermana
pequeno´ little sister. We spent 3 hours there and made reservations to be on the Gran
Adventura tour the next day at 11am. The Gran Adventura tour begins with a trip through
the jungle for 8km on a 4x4 land rover with an English speaking guide describing the animals
and the fauna found there. Then you disembark and go down 220 steps to the river where
a hard bottom zodiak with 250 power twin engines await you. Your belongings are stored
in a waterproof ditch bag and after putting on a life perserver and rain gear your off. He
powers it up and you shoot down the river to the falls. It is so exhillerating! We raced around
large boulders and up to the falls. You could feel and certainly hear its power. The second
fall, although smaller, was very powerfull and this one he took us right up to till we were
drinched. Everyone was laughing and applauding. It was a fantastic experience! After
being dropped off the boat we finished touring all the falls. We ate lunch in one of the park
cafe´s complete with a harp player. We purchased one of his DVD´s and a CD. We decided
to take the bus back to our hotel instead of a taxi, cost us $4pesos each, a bit over $1US.
Layed by the pool again and had dinner delivered to us by the hotel as didn´t want to go
into the village to eat. Had a nice visit with an English couple from London and an American
couple with a 2 year old child from Minnesota. It stays light here until 10pm and dinner for
most Argentines is about that time. We have to eat by 9pm. Having said that, lunch is during
siesta time 1pm to 5pm so eating a late lunch helps push dinner out.
Monday, february 11, we catch the bus to Cordoba at 1:30pm. We have purchased ´cama
seats total´which means we are on the lower half of a double decker bus with seats that
resemble airline seats but lie flat to sleep as our trip is 20 hours. We are given a blanket and
a pillow and served dinner and breakfast on board. There is an attendent on board to serve
our needs and we are shown 2 American movies, one we had not seen. We sit and read
and enjoy the scenery until it is dark then say our goodnights and sleep until 6am. After
breakfast we freshen up and arrive in Cordoba at 10am. WARNING: In the South American
Countries they keep the buses at freezing temperatures. I wore a coat, gloves, socks, and a
scarf around my neck with my blanket for sleeping. It is a very civilized and affordable way
to travel, however. Is the favorite way of travelling for the Argentinans.
Cordoba, Tuesday, Stuart had been reading the lonely planet guidebook on the bus trip and
asked if I minded if we went to a small mountain town away from the City for a few days instead
of staying in Cordoba, the 2nd largest City of Argentina. I was thrilled. We booked a Hotel
in Villa General Belgrano, bought 2 tickets on the bus for there and off we went. Gorgeous
views on the way of mountains and lakes. Dropped off at the station downtown and caught
a taxi to Hotel Bremen which was a nice surprise. Hotel Bremen is an old elegant hotel 9
blocks out of the village with nice grounds, tennis courts, and a large swimming pool. Belgrano
was founded by some German people who´s ship was wrecked off of the coast of Uraquay in
1926. The village has a sense of its German heritage with its houses and shops. They even
hold a German October Beer festival each year. We had a wonderful steak at a Parrilla
(steak house) that night, the best we have ever eaten and sat on a porch overlooking a steam.
Beautiful! The owner, a young man, was from Mendoza and since this was our next stop he
gave us information about what to see and do in Mendoza. The next evening we ate at a
German Restaurant. It seems every taxi driver we meet here has lived in US or has a brother
who lives in US and he has visited there. They speak very good English.
Mendoza, Thursday, February 14. We had a 9 hour bus trip to Mendoza from Belgrano.
These are large buses, very clean, air conditioned (not as cold as the cama buses) and they
stop so you can buy lunch at a food court. We met a nice couple from Argentina and Stuart
was able to get alot of good information from the gentleman (he spoke perfect English) about
the lake district we will visit later in our trip. Coming into Mendoza District our bus had
its undercarriage sprayed with a pesticide to protect the vineyards against any pests from
outside the district. At the bus terminal we took a taxi to hotel outside the city for the night
since we had no reservations. The next day we got reservations in the city centro at
Hotel Argentino across from the main park of Parque Independencia. Lovely spot and nice
hotel. It seems to be a favorite for US travel agents as we have met more Americans here
than any other place we have been thus far. One couple we met while checking in who are
from Wala Wala, Wa. actually know a friend of ours from Billings, Mt. Small world. He knows
Tim because the couple have a winery in Wala Wala and Tim visits it and purchases their wine.
I must tell you about the Parque Independencia in Mendoza. Each night there is entertainment
there, we saw a concert pianist in the underground museum there, jugglers and puppet shows
for the children, a full playground for the children, mimes all around, tents full of arts and crafts
and food and drink items. Hundreds of people go there and stay till late. It is a very safe
place and just across the street from our hotel. Are you sick of this? If not, more later.